Tagne 2001

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Andy's Diary

Day 22 - Thursday 19th July 2001

see also Dan's Diary for today

Sunrise near ABC

The next morning we assembled enormous sacks and had porridge for breakfast, kindly brewed by Dan. Steve and Alan were packing for their recce northwards, and Jon and Dan were helping prior to their descent back to Base Camp. We left at about 0600 at the very slow pace dictated by our loads.

We crossed the river easily as it was early and went on to the main south glacier. Narinder took the screes on the left, I pointed out that he liked scree. Just before Tagne came into view we saw a snowy gully in the scree. We climbed the rocks to the right and found a patch of snow and a perfectly flat area in the scree although the rocks were very sharp. We did a brief reccy, round to the rocks on the right to get a better view of the route and to see if there was a better camping spot although the one we had found was better than I had expected. When Narinder had reccied this side, the mountain had been in cloud (although I had seen it the next day). He was seeing the whole mountain for the first time. He said he was 100% sure he could find a route up the screes onto the glacier. I went with his decision due to his far greater experience, even thought I thought the route up the steep glacier looked more elegant and fun.

We pitched the tent on the flat area Camp 1. The afternoon was scorching and drifted by slowly. I had not bought the cards or chess set but it was so hot I was happy just to lie still. The altimeter/barometer read 36 Celsius in the shade and 41 Celsius in the pocket of the tent. When it got cooler we packed and set alarms for 0330. The more I looked at Tagne, the easier it looked. Screes to the upper corrie, easy climb to the col on the summit ridge, easy snow ridge to the summit.

We went to bed. The stars looked impressive even without my glasses, but I couldn't be bothered to get them as it was cold and the only reason I wasn't in my sleeping bag was to go to the loo.