Mt Tagne (6,111)

Tagne 2001


<< previous day (by Dan)contentsnext day >>

Andy's Diary

Day 21 - Wednesday 18th July 2001

see also Dan's Diary for today

photo © 2001 dan
The first clear view of Tagne

It was the evening of the 18th, and we were sitting at ABC, discussing what to do next. Having carried out sufficient reconnaissance we felt that there might be a route up Tagne from the south glacier. The ridge to the summit looked easy, as did the climb up the corrie to the col on the ridge. The bottom of the corrie was filled with a glacier that flowed steeply to a lower plateau. Climbing the glacier looked hard, although Alan judged it harder than I did. The other possibility was the scree to the left of the glacier.

I was exhausted (more mentally than physically) from the previous day. It was agreed that the mountain should be attempted the next day. The route was technically hard and so Dan ruled himself out. Steve was also ruled out although he begrudged it he could see that it was sensible. Al pointed out that it needed a team of two, probably with two axes each. Jon said that those who weren't going to do it should go down and save mountain rations. Steve, keen to get closer to a first ascent said he wanted to reccy P6250, according to our map, the highest in the region. Since Tagne needed two axes it was decided that two should reccy P6250, two should climb Tagne and two should go down. Narinder said that he would climb Tagne, being the LO this was his choice. This left me Jon and Al to decide who was going too. I was tired and the day of the attempt was my birthday. I remembered last year's birthday, an 18-hour day on the Aguille de Chardoner. We had to abandon the attempt, missed the cable car and arrived at the bottom at 1800 having been up at 0200, sunburnt and dehydrated. I ruled myself out of the Tagne team wishing to spend my birthday in comfort at base camp. I suggested Jon should go Al said the first attempt should be seen as a reccy and was unlikely to succeed.

It transpired that Jon thought Al should go and vice versa. Jon pointed out his lack of experience, only one Alpine season to Al's 8. Alan said he was in his 'third age of caution'. He felt he would back off if it were risky whereas Jon would push it to the limit (as he tended to do on Mallorcan rock). I left them arguing and when I came back the argument was still going.

My decision to go down was hard. I wanted to be the first to climb the mountain, and I felt if I tried it I would do it. Al had said that the first attempt would fail and assuming this would be the case I would have a much better chance being rested and with the information of the first attempt. I told the arguing couple that my decision was hard and Jon suggested that I might go myself. I agreed and went to bed. I didn't have Jon's fitness and keenness or Al's experience but evidently they thought I had the right mix.

<< previous day (by Dan)contentsnext day >>

the mountains the mountains

the photos the photos

the report the report

the diary the diary

the team the team

sponsors sponsors

links & docs links and docs

home home

© Copyright Steve Jolly 2001.